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20 Jan 2025

Behind the Counter: Championing Scottish cuisine at Auld Hag

Behind the Counter: Championing Scottish cuisine at Auld Hag

For the latest in our Behind the Counter series, Speciality & Fine Food Fair chats to Gregg Boyd, the mind behind London's first Scottish deli, to learn more about its journey to launching and the challenges of bringing quality Scottish produce to the UK capital. 

Auld Hag, a Scottish deli nestled in the heart of Angel, London, made headlines when it opened in February 2024 as a celebration of Scotland’s rich culinary heritage and London’s first Scottish deli.  

At its helm is Gregg Boyd, who like many during lockdown was inspired to look beyond the 9-5 and invest in a long-held passion project: launching a food business.  

Auld Hag

Boyd’s vision for Auld Hag combines tradition with modernity, all while paying homage to Scotland’s exceptional produce. Reflecting on the origins of Auld Hag, Boyd explains that the idea for a Scottish food business had been brewing in his mind since childhood.  

“I’d always enjoyed cooking and had this dream of starting a food business,” he says. The opportunity arose during the pandemic, when the world slowed down and many people found themselves exploring new ventures.  

Boyd wasn’t furloughed, but long weekends during lockdown gave him the chance to develop his long-held dream. A moment of inspiration came when he was trying to order traditional Scottish fare, like haggis, neeps, and tatties, and realised there were no options available.  

“I thought I’d combine my desire to start a food business with the lack of Scottish food in London,” he recalls. The result was a website which launched overnight, offering homemade haggis dishes delivered by Boyd himself on a bike. 

The venture took off as a classic lockdown success story, with a strong emphasis on brand building via social media, especially Instagram. 

“I was already a big fan of the food scene in London so I knew what works on Instagram and on the social side of things so I just tried to mirror some of the places I liked,” he explains.  

The brand built a strong online presence and by April 2020, as restrictions eased, Boyd was ready to take his idea to the next level.  

“I bought a gazebo, cooking kit, and banner in just a few days and turned up at a market for the first time,” he recounts. 

Auld hag

Perseverance and collaboration with other small businesses helped Auld Hag gain traction. Boyd fondly recalls partnerships with restaurants and pop-ups, including a memorable Scotland-England fusion menu for the Euros 2020 football match.  

“We learned so much from those collaborations,” he adds. Expanding to a second market stall in King’s Cross brought a new level of exposure, particularly to homesick Scots arriving in London. “Scottish folk would come straight off the train from Edinburgh and head to us for a roll and sausage,” laughs Boyd. 

Opportunities continued to grow, and Auld Hag’s reputation for quality Scottish food reached Scotland House - the Scottish Government’s hub in London Blackfriars.  

“They asked us to cater their events, which was a great chance to get creative with menus,” Boyd explains. From haggis to innovative dishes blending Scottish produce with global flavours, Boyd began showcasing the versatility of Scotland’s ingredients.  

A six-month residency at Exale Brewery in Walthamstow followed, allowing Auld Hag to experiment further at its first non-market home. 

“It was cool, but we realised people weren’t coming for the food,” Boyd admits. “I wanted a space where we could control everything and really tell the story behind the produce.” 

In June 2023, Boyd launched a Kickstarter campaign for a permanent location, which led to the opening of Auld Hag’s Angel deli: The Shoap. “The reaction was so positive,” he says, reflecting on the footfall and events that have since made the deli a community hub.  

Auld Hag

St Andrew’s Day 2024 was a milestone, marked by a Ceilidh in East London attended by 350 people—a modern twist on a traditional Scottish celebration. 

Despite his success, Boyd is not a trained chef. “I got into cooking as a kid when I was grounded one summer,” he shares. Inspired by Jamie Oliver’s ‘Jamie at Home,’ Boyd developed a love for cooking that stayed with him even as he pursued a career in economics.  

Today, Auld Hag’s focus on excellent Scottish produce reflects Boyd’s culinary philosophy. “We bake here too,” he says, highlighting the daily production of morning rolls and empire biscuits. “These are things people miss from home, and you can’t get them at other bakeries in the city.” 

Morning roll

Sourcing produce is a labour of love, with Boyd passionately seeking out quality Scottish products from across the country. During university, he worked at Earthy, a fruit and veg shop in Edinburgh, where he developed an appreciation for artisanal Scottish products. Many of the suppliers he encountered back then now stock Auld Hag, including Galloway Lodge and Findlay’s of Portobello.  

Boyd’s sourcing process is highly personal. “I like to know the stories behind the products because our customers always ask,” he says. While some items come from distributors like The Cress Company, Boyd usually deals directly with producers in some of the remotest part of Scotland, who often work to their own, slightly less fast-paced schedule.  

“Logistics have been one of our biggest challenges,” he admits, recounting a nerve-wracking delay on the deli’s opening day when square sausage deliveries arrived 16 hours late. 

Looking ahead, Boyd envisions expanding Auld Hag with a second location in Edinburgh. “If we manage our own deliveries, we can ensure everything arrives on time,” he says. The move would also strengthen ties with suppliers and streamline operations.  

For now, the focus is on building Auld Hag’s presence in London. Boyd notes that other local businesses have begun sourcing Scottish products from the deli, particularly around events like St Andrew’s Day and Burns Night. “We’re not trying to gatekeep; we want as many people as possible to enjoy Scottish produce,” he emphasises.

Salmon

As Burns Night 2025 approaches, Boyd is preparing both traditional and modern celebrations. “We don’t need to keep ourselves in this little tartan bagpipe box,” he says. Recent whisky distillery collaborations and innovative events reflect Boyd’s mission to showcase the diversity and dynamism of Scottish food culture.  

“During COVID, so many people visited Scotland for the first time and discovered its cuisine. I want to keep that momentum going,” he says. With Auld Hag, Boyd has not only created a space for Scots to reconnect with their roots but also introduced Londoners to the richness of Scottish flavours. 

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