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06 Mar 2025

A Seat at the Chef's Table: Why Gender Equality in Food Needs More Male Allies

A Seat at the Chef's Table: Why Gender Equality in Food Needs More Male Allies
It’s International Women’s Day on Saturday—a time to celebrate the achievements of women across industries, reflect on progress, and challenge the barriers that remain. In this Thought Piece, Mex Ibrahim, Co-Founder of Women in the Food Industry, one of the Fair's partners, explores gender inequality and how it isn't just a women's issue, but an industry-wide challenge that needs everyone at the table...

In the food world, there’s plenty to highlight, from the increasing visibility of female chefs to the growing networks supporting women in hospitality. Yet, as Co-Founder of Women in the Food Industry, I’ve noticed something curious: when we hold events—which are open to all, discussing topics relevant to everyone—very few men show up.

Which raises the question: where are the men? And why do they feel these conversations don’t involve them?

An Industry Reckoning

The issue of gender in the food world hit the headlines recently with the uproar surrounding comments made by Michelin starred chef Jason Atherton. When asked by The Times whether sexism was still a problem in professional kitchens, his response—“I haven’t seen it”—became the headline, sparking a backlash. The reaction was swift and fierce. Chef Poppy O’Toole called out his comments in a viral Instagram post that racked up over 27,000 likes and over 1,000 comments.

In The Times article, Atherton had also said he was very supportive of the rising number of talented female chefs in the sector.

“Every single award in the world now has a ‘best female chef’ category. That’s really important,” he said. “It definitely encourages females to feel safe and secure in our industry … and they’re accepted. And of course they are, but in my opinion, they always were.”

Our own response? A fact-check: no, not every award has a ‘Best Female Chef’ category (Michelin certainly doesn’t). And no, safety and security are not the aims of those awards—greater equality is.

As there was such a backlash to his initial comments, Atherton later clarified that what he had said was taken out of context, claiming he never said sexism didn’t exist, only that he hadn’t personally witnessed it.

Writing on Instagram and in The Evening Standard he said “When I trained as a young chef, it was a different world, cooking was a male dominated industry, it just was. You’re talking about the Seventies and Eighties, I’m an older chef now. Back then, I was just a young man from the north of England with nothing: I didn’t pay attention to anything that was going on, I was just working, keeping my head down. My role was never to be a spokesman.”

But this raises another question: as he became a more prominent figure in the food industry, why wasn’t it his role to be a spokesman?

The Silence of Male Allies

The backlash against Atherton’s comments led to a significant response, with 70 predominantly female chefs penning an open letter to The Telegraph detailing their own experiences with sexism in the industry. Their stories were harrowing, frustrating, and—most of all—entirely unsurprising to those of us who have worked in the sector.

Interestingly, The Telegraph then followed up by asking male chefs about sexism. Some responded well, highlighting the importance of tackling gender inequality. Yet it raises an ongoing issue: why does it take a controversy for men to engage in this conversation? Why is it that, in our own events aimed at addressing industry-wide issues, so few men attend?

Is it a sense that gender issues aren’t “their problem”? Do they feel unwelcome in spaces designed to empower women? Or is there an underlying discomfort in confronting an issue where they might be part of the problem?

What Male Chefs and Food Leaders Can Do

This isn’t about vilifying men or putting them on the defensive. It’s about encouraging active participation. If men truly believe in gender equality in kitchens, they need to do more than just say they support women—they need to show up.

Attending events that discuss gender issues isn’t just about listening to women’s experiences; it’s about empathy and learning how to be an ally. It’s about understanding the systemic barriers that still exist, acknowledging that sexism in the industry is real, and collaborating with women to take an active role in dismantling it.

The men who do engage—those who mentor female chefs, call out harassment in their kitchens, and push for structural change—prove that allyship is possible. But we need more of them. And we need them to engage consistently, not just when a media storm forces the issue into the spotlight. It should be a movement and not just a moment.

A Call to Action

So, this International Women’s Day, I’m flipping the usual question. Instead of asking what more women can do to succeed in the food industry, I’m asking: where are the men? And more importantly, when will they start showing up?

Find out more about Women in the Food Industry here.

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